Nino's Tuscany Steakhouse

Nestled behind the towering hotels of Central Park South, Nino's Tuscany Steakhouse provides a cozy, welcoming haven and unfussy, well-executed cooking from its namesake Tuscan Italian region. Part of Nino Selimaj's of eateries, this spot attracts neighborhood denizens, tourists, and Carnegie Hall aficionados. Pastel-hued murals of the idyllic Tuscan countryside, brickwork, and softly-lit elongated sconces set a pleasant mood that's enlivened in the evenings by the sprightly piano playing of irrepressible nonagenarian, Irving Fields; fans sit at the bar to sip wine and hear their requests. The chef charms with starters like gnudi al burro e salvia, enticing and rich little mounds of ricotta, spinach, and Swiss chard served in a pool of melted butter with crisp-fried sage leaves. Mains are first-rate: the Cornish hen, marinated overnight in rosemary, garlic, and white wine, is flattened and oven-roasted until golden and juicy; a lovely veal shank is slow-braised with lemon, parsley, and garlic until fork tender and do not forget the Rib Eye and NY Sirlon Steaks . From the menu to the music, there's nothing newfangled here, just the classics. —