Brant Rock Union Chapel

HISTORY OF THE BRANT ROCK UNION CHAPEL

Let history record that a multitude of people, through the years, have loved Brant Rock Union Chapel. Some of them attended summer Sunday services, most did not. But for nearly a century the stone Chapel, with its spacious lawn, has been there when the community needed it – and for more than a century the community has been there when the Chapel was in need.

Three years after it was built, the sturdy fieldstone building served as a refuge for the women and children during the Storm of 1898. They had first taken shelter in the Coast Guard station across the street, but as it became damaged and flooded they were taken on a rope safety line to the Chapel.

The Marshfield Historical Commission has placed a stone marker on the front lawn to commemorate the part our little Chapel played in that disaster. Shelter was also given in the October storm of 1991.

Remember the name Dr. Archibald T. Davison. He was a Dorchester physician and a deacon in the Baptist church. He was the person who assumed financial responsibility for the building of the Chapel before the trusteeship was set up. He and his family spent summers in the house at 185 Ocean Street, the house with the widow’s walk that is sometimes referred to as “the mansion” .. and he didn’t want to go all the way to center Marshfield in a horse and buggy to go to church on Sundays.

The Chapel was designed by architect J. William Beal. The Articles of Agreement for the construction were signed on May 5, 1895 by Archibald T. Davison, Charles Lawrence and Joseph Williams. Luther White was the carpenter and builder; his nephew Foster Ewell did the stonework. The clockworks and bell bear the name E. Howard – famous in that day. There is an Estes organ inside the church (and in 2006 a new piano purchased by the people of Victory Baptist Church.) Construction costs were $3500. The belfry tower was added by Luther White for $400.

Deeds carry restrictions placed there by the seller. Bradley Bryant. The Chapel must be used as a place of worship or it reverts to Bryant’s heirs and assigns. If the trustees wish to vacate they may remove the building, but the land reverts to Bryant’s heirs upon payment of the original price. There are also building set-back stipulations and “no privy shall be constructed or placed unless within and under the roof of some other building.” Also, No building costing less that $1000 shall be placed or erected on the property.” Bryant was the owner and developer of various tracts of land in Brant Rock, including the waterfront. He was apparently a man of foresight in matters of zoning and planning.

The Chapel was dedicated on Sunday, July 12, 1896, and the original printed program for that service was donated in 2005 for the Chapel records by Lois Chandler. In 1897, after the Union Chapel Association had been incorporated, deeds for the property and building passed from Archibald T. and Lucy Davison to the board of trustees “in consideration of one dollar.”

The Chapel has been used sometimes through the years as a community center. Once in the early 1900’s a minstrel show was held to raise money for street lights. Church suppers of chowder, fish, oysters, etc. – from our own ocean –cooked in our kitchen – were social gatherings. Records show that Plymouth County Commissioners were invited to such a supper to discuss road conditions in the area.

As the terrible fire of 1941 raged beyond control in Ocean Bluff with 446 houses and 15 businesses – as well as the original St. Ann’s – burning, firefighters regretfully laid plans to blow up abutting houses to the Chapel as a firebreak, to save the Chapel and the business center. Thanks be to God, the wind shifted, and the houses and the Chapel were saved as the inferno was brought under control.

In the social turbulence of the 1960’s and 1970’s Brant Rock was no longer a fashionable place in the summertime, and church-going was not fashionable either. The Chapel, along with churches across the nation, fell on hard times. The dishes were sold from the kitchen in order to make ends meet financially. Vandalism and break-ins were too frequent. The original brass lamps were stolen from the walls … and lightning struck the weathervane on the bell tower.

Through it all, for one hour each Sunday in the summer, non-denominational services were held, led by local and visiting ministers and attended by the faithful few – sometimes as few as 11 people. The holy words, “Wherever two or three are gathered in my name, there am I,” kept the glimmer of spirit going – and Ernie Chandler played the organ (as he does to this day).

Long-time member of the Board of Trustees Helen Peterson kept her checkbook generously open for emergencies, but without the volunteers from the community who saw a job that needed to be done and did it during this period, we would not be here today. Most of them did not even attend Chapel … without a word to anyone, the lawn would be mowed, shingles nailed back, windows repaired, door locks replaced, etc. Names too numerous to mention, but recorded in church records.

When the lightning had struck the tower, the heavy rain put out the small belfry roof fire, but the clock stopped, badly damaged and in need of repair. The funny thing is – as if to remind the community that something was wrong – the bell would sound a single toll from time to time at odd hours.

As if in response to the plea of the bell, residents and businessmen answered the call. In the early 1980’s a community effort was organized to do repairs. However, at a time like that, the “little” Chapel becomes very big and expensive. So, a fund-raising mailing was initiated. Donations came in from $2 to $200 from all over Marshfield and from former residents around the country.

Heartwarming notes accompanied the checks – more than $10,000 was raised.

Excellent local craftsmen then gave excellently low bids and did excellent work – and the big roof was re-shingled (Steve Vining), the belfry was re-shingled (Sousa and Sons), the clock faces were rebuilt and gilded (Steven Anstatt – four faces, 240 minute marks, 48 numerals, and 8 hands.) On July 4, 1986, the clockworks were restored to working order by Harris Penniman, mechanical engineer. It took until August of 1989 to find a way to get the weathervane replaced and in place … but finally a steeplejack named John Otto was found and, swinging up on ropes, he put the new one up – to the cheers of watching community members.

During the 1980’s the Board of Trustees was approached by a group who wanted to gather a new church, Victory Baptist Church. They asked if they could share the building, and the trustees were glad to have the building used year round. Victory Baptist does not own the building, but hold services and various occasions. The trustees are very grateful for the work they do in maintaining the interior of the building and grounds. They have successfully gathered many vital, active church members. In the summer they meet Sundays at 9:30, and Brant Rock Union Chapel holds its traditional, non-denominational summer services at 11:00 a.m.

The Union Chapel of Brant Rock was generously endowed in the will of Helen Peterson, so trustees are able to keep the building in good shape. A handicap access ramp has been added, the portico rebuilt, and in 2005 - 2006 the eyebrow windows were replaced (Craig Yoger and Chad Blackman) and the whole roof re-shingled (Steve Vining). Weddings and funerals are held there on request.

Written by Faith Jean, for the

Board of Trustees

Union Chapel of Brant Rock

February 3, 2007