The Palace

Manny Torres Gimenez is continually improving his cooking lot in life, but to step inside his latest venture, you might never suspect it.

He developed a cultlike following at Mr. Pollo in the Mission, where he cooked arepas and a $20 four-course menu. In January, he left that business and moved down the street to take over Roxy's Cafe, offering a $25 four-course menu and a more elaborate 10-course tasting extravaganza for $75. The upgrade was minimal - a few more seats, polyester white curtains at the storefront windows, rickety dining tables, thin paper napkins and mismatched tinny flatware.

Now he's building his empire, keeping Roxy's but opening a 30-seat restaurant in what used to be the Palace Steak House on Mission Street and Cesar Chavez.

Napkins are still paper, but larger and thicker. The flatware is flimsy, but it matches. And he now accepts credit cards, although you'll be charged 3 percent extra. He doesn't have a beer and wine license yet, so you will need to bring your own libation.

At the Palace, Torres Gimenez offers the deal of the year: a five-course savory menu for $50.

Playing off the steak house roots, the final course is always beef, whether it's a Painted Hills rib eye - four rosy slices nestled next to a chard, potato and mushroom medley - or, for $20 extra, an American Wagyu cut with the same accompaniments. Tasting both side by side is enlightening; while the regular steak is excellent and juicy, the Wagyu tastes as if someone injected liquid fat into the flesh.

Each time Gimenez moves, he steps up in terms of ambience - but he started so far in the basement that many people still won't be able to relate. At the Palace, flatware is never changed out; only one waiter, Gimenez's wife, Katerina De Porres, handles the dining room.

If you call for a reservation, De Porres' voice mail says to text the request instead of leaving a message. She explains that if you want to talk to her, it's best to come by the restaurant. She's friendly in person, but the service can still be fitful because of the limited staff and the complexity of Gimenez's cooking.